It's been so long I don't remember what my next adventure was from my last blog...
my apologies.
Bangkok has been slowly opening up for most of October, but then with policy changes, bam! The flow of foreigners has increased, the traffic has increased and the street life is beginning to emerge in Bangkok.
The trifecta of wats has finally opened up now that it is November! Wat Pho (reclining Buddha), Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and Wat Arun.
Golden Mountain
First to open, after several attempts to get in throughout the summer(banging on the gates just draws the police's attention, I recommend you don't try that!) is Golden Mountain, with its 344 steps to reach the top. It offers the ultimate view from the highest point in the old part of the city.
At the base of the golden chedi is the exact middle of Thailand. I was told this by an older gentleman sitting on the bench beside his daughter. It was a family visit to the temple. If you can
toss a coin and have it land in the exact middle it will bring you good luck( I think whoever is cleaning it at the end of the day is most lucky) however I am sure all money goes to the upkeep of this historical monument.
His little granddaughter was sporting a Cookie Monster handbag, so it must be true! There were less than 30 people at the site.
WAT PHO
November 1st, Wat Pho! There was reasoning to my madness to get there ASAP! If the reopening of Thailand causes another lockdown I wanted to ensure I got there! (as of writing this one month later, Thailand continues to open up for foreign travellers ) Although the day I went there were less than 50 people in the entire complex. Upon entry, I was directed to the ticket booth to purchase my "foreign ticket" as Thais enter for free. 200 baht ($ 7.50 Canadian) is a reasonable entry fee.
Wat Pho is the temple of the reclining Buddha.
A reclining Buddha represents his obtaining nirvana. It is 46 M in length(approx. 150 ft). It is one of the oldest wats in Bangkok.
...The temple is considered the earliest centre for public education in Thailand, It houses a school of Thai medicine, and is also known as the birthplace of traditional
Thai massage is still taught and practiced at the temple. Wikipedia
the soles of the Buddha's feet
from tip...
...to toe
WAT ARUN
My next trip was a week later to Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), located on the banks of the Chao Phraya river. Declared one of the most beautiful temples in the world. From afar it looks white, gold, coppery depending on the sunlight.
Upon closer inspection parts are decorated with reused china and small glass tiles to reflect the light. It is especially beautiful lit at night (I have yet to see for myself, I have only seen pictures). The day of my visit was an early Saturday morning. With the reopening, I wanted to go early to avoid larger crowds. There were about 50 people throughout the complex, mostly monks. (look to the right of the picture above)
the very top was blocked off.
Wat Phra Kaew
My third visit was to The Emerald Buddha, on the grounds of the Grand Palace. I was expecting a large buddha, however, it is tradition for the king to change the robes of the buddha 3 times a year...once for the rainy season(June to October), once for the colder season(November to February) and dry season (March to June)---all comprise hot humid weather, although the cooler season seems to be breezier! I digress!
So I had envisioned ladders and drapes of fabric. However, the height of the emerald buddha is only 66 cm tall (26 inches) and the clothing consists of a diamond-encrusted golden robe through the hot season, a solid gold robe in the cool season and a gold-plated monk's robe with a headdress for the rainy season. So no ladders or drapes of fabric.
As I left the MRT I was met with calls that the Grand Palace was closed today! (a popular scam in Bangkok) I walked along ignoring the calls, besides people were disappearing into the outer wall a la Harry Potter and Platform 9 3/4.
I wasn't able to disappear into the wall I'm afraid as the entry to the Grand Palace involved lots of barriers, crossing the street multiple times to get through security and covid measures. There were quite a few people this early Sunday morning. Apparently, it was closed in the afternoon because of protestors. Pays to be early!!
As you walked closer to the actual temple I was asked to make my way to the ticket booth to pay for my "foreigner ticket" of 400baht.
The grounds were absolutely breathtaking and I engaged my swivel so my head could move more freely! A young couple was taking pictures and I asked them to take mine. Her eye for detail and composition of the pictures were good, so I followed them around and they became my official photographers on the self-guided tour of the grounds! Thank you!
No pictures were allowed inside the actual temple, however, the doors were open and one particular spot was very busy as the "background" was the buddha through the open doors. Needless to say, I looked for my photographers and they were nowhere to be found.
A man was taking pictures of his family and I decided to ask him if he would. I waited patiently as grandma decided she was a former Miss World and posed and reposed and posed again. As their Vogue photoshoot drew to an end, my photographers magically appeared for my glamour shots!
On the palace ground is the Queen Sirikit Textile Museum. Queen Sirikit is Rama lX's widow, the present Queen Mother. There was an exhibit of her gowns and clothing and her love story with Rama lX, entitled The Power of Love. Also another exhibit; The Javanese Batik Collection of King Chulalongkorn of Siam.
Both intriguing in their history and beauty, but I wanted to "exit through the giftshop" and it didn't disappoint. Yes, I could have purchased fabric by the yard, but I didn't succumb to the temptation and held myself back to a few trinkets and mementos.
Finally, the trifecta of temples is off the Bangkok Bucket List!
I'm leaving a link here to the 7 Buddha Postures
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