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  • Writer's pictureDarren Fancy

Koh Chang~home of amazing sunsets~

Well, the travel bug and the ease of travelling around Thailand caught me!

After my visit to Hua Hin, the urge to travel further afield was in my blood. I had heard about Koh Chang (Elephant Island) on YouTube channels.

Now, do I get a car or drive or fly or bus?

I contacted my favourite taxi/car firm. the drive was going to be 5-6 hours and they would only take me to the ferry terminal.

Bus--still out of the question for me personally. I didn't want to take the chance with unknown people in an enclosed space for so long.


Flights were cheap in Canadian terms, 100$ C return. A 50-minute flight, and then a car from the airport to the ferry and then on to the hotel. Done!

I read about a few good resorts on the island and settled on Marina Sands Resort. A resort was created through a conglomeration of 4 companies. There was a marina, hotel with 2 pools, a golf course and the 4th company being a community of beach homes for sale(4.9 million baht) with

excellent rental opportunities(that's what the sign said anyway!). The site was large, so much so, that golf carts could be called to transport from one area to another. I decided the exercise would do me good! The walk to the restaurant with the best beach view was approximately 10 minutes away. I could go to a closer bar/restaurant, but with so few visitors at the current time, it was closed.






My first day saw me requesting the hotel shuttle to the 7-11 so that I could catch a songthaew to the waterfalls(according to the front desk personnel they came by frequently on the main road) and I could hike into the park entrance easily. It was apparently the easiest waterfall to hike to, so that's why I chose it.

Songtheauw----a pickup with benches in the back and a metal structure to hold on to for dear life! Usually with a covering of canvas or plastic in case of rain.

I waited at the 7-11 for about 20 minutes, wondering when the songthaew would happen by-- nothing!

Another 20 minutes...still nothing. Finally one with some passengers. I flagged it down and it drove on by!

I called the hotel, they called another driver and another 10 minutes later the songthaew arrived just for me! At 500baht(approx$10) I wasn't in the mood to argue. I'm glad I got the ride right to the main gate of the trail to the falls as it was a good couple of kilometres off the main road and in the heat I wasn't feeling the most energetic.


Now the guide books and info that I had read said this was an easy hike to do as it was only 600 metres or so to the falls and the trail had stairs and ropes to help with the hiking. A good, for old men tour.

Now, I hadn't thought this through and was only wearing my Birkenstocks (comfort over style). Maybe not the best footwear for traipsing over rocks! (NO ropes! NO stairs!)



I continued with trepidation. A rope! and a wet, steep rock to haul oneself up and over! Some steps carved in said rock to continue to the apex of the side of a mountain(the exertion was causing me to be delirious. I met couples coming back, in flip flops, I thought well! How hard can this be!??


Believe me, by the time I reached the falls all I wanted to do was jump in the pool at the bottom. But, sadly, my swimsuit, along with sensible hiking shoes were back at the hotel. I looked longingly at the other swimmers who seemed to be enjoying themselves, even after such an arduous hike! They had even thought ahead and had picnics with them! (I wondered for a brief minute if they had them helicoptered in for their lunch, as it was all I could manage to carry myself and a half-empty backpack--did I mention while wearing Birkenstocks?)

Needless to say, I felt better for having pushed through and made it to the destination without complaint

(no one was with me to listen, so I remained silent except for the cursing in my head!).

I turned around and headed back the way I came. I met families with dads carrying their children on their shoulders, wearing flip flops, moms leading smaller children over the aforementioned obstacles, all while wearing crocs! Okay, I'm getting too old for this perhaps!

I did make it back to "base camp" and proceeded to buy a bottle of water, which evaporated quickly! I called the driver of the songthaew(he gave me his card) and before hanging, up he confirmed that it was 500baht to return to the hotel.

Now that I was safely sitting in the back of the songthaew, holding on, I would like to tell you about the roads on Koh Chang!

Picture the Rockies or Alps with roads going in a snake-like fashion at an angle ranging anywhere from 45-80 degrees. Then picture bumps and repairs in the road, causing one's spine to shorten by several inches when going over said bumps. All done at a cruising speed of approximately90 miles/ hour. Remember you're not the only vehicle on the road and they must also be avoided! Such a pleasant journey and morning that, upon my return, I quickly made my way to the nearest beach lounger, ordered a drink of the alcoholic variety and proceeded to doze off for the afternoon!




Apparently, my desire for torture was not satiated by the previous hike and rides. I signed up for a snorkelling trip to the smaller islands around Koh Chang. The songthaew was to pick me up at 8 am and we would make our way to Bangbao, a fishing village on stilts, at the southern end of Koh Chang, to begin our sailing expedition.

I had chosen to meet the transport at the PTT gas station at the entrance to the resort. There was a method in my madness---coffee! The restaurants on the resort did not open until 8 am, so I would be fuelless for the journey. The PTT chain of gas stations usually has a 7-11 and a Cafe Amazon. This one did not disappoint. I grabbed some snacks at 7-11, coffee at Cafe Amazon and waited patiently. I need to say, I like this driver! She arrived 15 minutes early! I like early-and we were off to pick up 10 more travellers. An interesting observation-the Thais who got on the back of the pickup avoided actually sitting beside me. As the last passenger climbed on, the first couple eyed me with trepidation. By the time we reached Bangbao, there were 11 of us in the songthaew. As we disembarked one of the guys looked at me and said, "Where are you from Brah?" (Too much American tv) but as he was the only one to say anything, I responded, "Canada!"

"I don't speak English, I like to eat!"

I chuckled and he asked where in Canada I was from.

"Toronto!"

"I know Blue Jays and Maple Leafs!"


While onboard the ship/fishing boat, I found out he runs a t-shirt business and he gets orders for those team logo t-shirts frequently!

He and his girlfriend live in Bangkok, he is 25, his girlfriend 26- an older woman-they didn't get the joke! They were here on Koh Chang for the weekend. He had never snorkelled before and he was a bit nervous.

As I looked around there was a large family "reunion" onboard. I was the only visible minority!

The sea was a gorgeous, beautiful turquoise blue. We set a course for the first stop of the day.

The matriarch and patriarch of the family gathering began taking photos. Sweet couple shots on the deck--a peck on the cheek, a little leg, a little butt grab--they seemed genuinely happy after producing such a large family(approximately 20 in total)





As we slowed and anchored at the first stop, one of the grandkids decided he was going to jump in the ocean from the upper deck. My new friend Bruno said we should try it! I said, "Sure at the next stop!"

The actual snorkelling was fun! The water was warm and the sights underwater were less than spectacular, but still enjoyable to see. Schools of brightly coloured fish swam by, corral, all quite interesting.

I decided to go back on board after 20 minutes or so. The "grandparent couple "was taking more photos. They had both changed clothes and were being a bit more "cheeky" as they say. She acting more coquettish, he was more macho, staking his claim as it were!

The others got back onboard and we were off to the next stop and the moment of truth. Bruno reminded me of our deal and I reluctantly got ready. Then I thought---maybe it's not deep enough! Damn, Bruno found out it was quite deep!. The crew member advised against wearing the floatation device straps between my legs if I were going to jump! Advice taken. Bruno jumped in-- no problem!

Fear struck my heart as I stood on the railing. I felt like Rose! Where was Jack to rescue me from this misadventure! Chip-any last words of advice? NO?!!

I jumped!

Easy peasy lemon squeezy!

As I returned to the boat the grandparents were at it again. They had changed clothes and were taking more photos together, with grandkids, kids etc. They seemed to be enjoying the photoshoot more than the actual water.

Time for lunch. Omelet, veggie stew, chicken and rice. Fresh fruit for dessert. After lunch was beach time! We docked fairly close to the beach and we were able to swim ashore and relax in the sun.

The family joined together on the beach. The couple were now sporting their swim attire and a multitude of photos were taken.

I took some pics and decided to sit on a log to watch the "goin's on!"

Grandma started doing yoga poses when out of the corner of my eye something moved in the undergrowth. I turned slowly and a monitor lizard appeared searching...I quickly jumped up and moved from my seat. I decided beach time was over. A man came to retrieve his camera equipment. I cautioned him that there was a "hiya" and pointed to the log.

Silence fell across the beach!

"hiya" in Thai (the name of the lizard) is equivalent to saying Motherf@#$^r! in English!

As I climbed aboard the boat the last shot I saw was grandma on her back, legs spread in the air and a big smile on her face---grandpa's too!



Let's move on!

We made it back safely to the pier and back to the songtaew for our return to the various hotels. I did get a fair bit of sun and a nice sunburn on my shoulders and the backs of my arms! Yes, I used sunscreen but didn't apply it frequently enough after each of the 5 stops for snorkelling.


With so much excitement, I'm afraid I felt like taking it easy for the rest of my visit and found a comfortable lounger on the beach and read my book, along with a nice cold drink to help ease me into a beachy kinda mood!






Beach days are the best!






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